The humpback Croustille Croissant

Let me just say that, when it comes to the croissant, I have by now logged the requisite number of sampling hours to be a full-fledged expert. I have tasted croissants from numerous bakeries in the U.S. — those produced by Bonjour and Patisserie Poupon right here in Baltimore are excellent — as well as croissants baked in their homeland, under the French flag. 

There are a lot of sad, bad croissants aux États-Unis — heavy, flat, doughy crescents that show up in supermarkets and fast-food joints. The really good stuff comes from local bakeries; they should be crusty, light, airy and buttery.

This one from Croustille Cafe French Bakery in Pikesville might be called “the humpback” because the master baker at this kosher shop obviously takes seriously the charge to keep the croissant light and airy, creating an unusually high peak at its center, and with a crusty (croustillant) finish. It’s also one of the largest croissants I’ve ever seen. As you might note from the photo, it opens nicely, exposing the airy pockets inside. The Croustille Croissant was also delicious with morning coffee. Bravo! Il est bien fait!